And there's more...

I told you! Blogs are like buses, you wait for ages and two come along at once, etc...

The June issue of 'Climb' magazine is out and you should all go and buy it because Micky's on the cover! He features in the 'Bloc Masters' article by Percy Bishton which is about Britain's strongest boulderers. Also included in the article are another two climbers who have made their mark in Northumberland, Malcolm Smith and Dan Varian. There's an interview with Micky, as well as Malcolm's thoughts on 'the next level'. And guess who that is..?

Obviously, the photo on the cover is a belter...

Climb Magazine. Cover by the Page/Savage dream team...

I'd also like to give Dan a man-hug (who wouldn't?) for finally getting his 8b+ project nailed. I know he's been working this for a while, and I'm looking forward to seeing him on it for photos.
Check out the 'Dandelion Mind' video here:
http://vimeo.com/23044295

Last week, Chris Graham invited me along to the ASBO 11 competition at Climb Newcastle to take photos. If you want to have a look through some of those, they're here:

http://www.climbnewcastle.com/gallery.php?id=32

Sidonie Graham in the Womens' Final, ASBO11

Ok, so let's get on with the Northumberland round-up.
As I said last time, I've been out quite a bit recently as we've had some settled weather. Lots of bouldering though. I feel like I've been neglecting routes a bit, so I need to get on top of that. I've been practising throwing the camera in the air to get lucky photos. Like this:

Jimmy Hunter on 'Devil's Edge', HVS 5a, Kyloe

Also from Kyloe, here's Megan showing her dad how it's done:

Megan Hunter on 'Conifer Direct', S4b, Kyloe

Over at Bowden I hooked up with Richard and Jill on another quiet day.

Richard Gage, 'Tiger's Wall', VS 5a, Bowden

We went over the hill to Raven's where Danka was working Low Level Traverse. The sunset was a non-event, and I had packed up to leave, but the sky suddenly changed and I got a few photos.

Danka Kudlacik on 'Low Level Traverse', 6b, Raven's Crag

Whenever my motivation starts wavering, all I need to do is get in touch with Rob Fielding. He's super-psyched for The County and has an inspiring tick list. Nic Ward and I went to meet Rob at Callerhues. Rob warmed up on The Mall which is an under-rated HVS (that's Callerhues HVS which is probably E2/E3) with some great moves. He cleaned up the direct start and climbed it that way, without using the block in the chimney. So it's definately not the 5a way of doing it...

Rob Fielding on 'The Mall', HVS 5a, Callerhues

Rob Fielding on 'The Mall', HVS 5a, Callerhues

Rob also spent a bit of time on Stu Campbell's 'Scar Tissue' which is the boulder problem start to 'The Thoroughbred'. It's a fantastic problem, and a bit steep... I've put it down here as 8a, but Stu reckons it's soft and might be 7c+. Rob's keen to get back on it though.

Rob Fielding on 'Scar Tissue', 8a, Callerhues

Rob Fielding on 'Scar Tissue', 8a, Callerhues

Nic and Rob did all the routes on the detached wall.

Nic Ward on 'Footpath', E1 5b, Callerhues

Rob Fielding on 'Paving' MVS 5a, Callerhues

Staying on the detached wall, Nic had a few goes at 'The Eyes of Silence' before we left.

Nic Ward on 'The Eyes of Silence', 7c+, Callerhues

Nic Ward on 'The Eyes of Silence', 7c+, Callerhues

Next blog I should have some exciting news (and photos) from Callerhues, but for the moment I'll just leave it at that.

It was a nice surprise to bump into Paul Carruthers at Shaftoe, and he got on one of the scariest problems there. Two moves into the traverse around The Punchbowl boulder and you're 30ft above a horrible landing. I've wanted to photograph this problem for ages, and although this isn't the right time of year (the sun's setting in the wrong place), Paul was happy to get on it.

Paul Carruthers on the 6c traverse of The Punchbowl, Shaftoe. Scary!

Paul Carruthers on a hard direct start to 'Sloper Masterclass', Shaftoe

Getting back to the subject of motivation, Steve Blake is an inspiration! If he's not out scouting the potential of new bouldering venues, he's out cleaning and putting up new problems. He's a mine of knowledge and a great person to be around.
I was invited to his latest 'Crag X' to get some photos of the first ascents of some of the problems up there. There are a few left to be done before it's made public. but it's a beautiful, quiet place with some cracking looking problems.

Steve Blake on 'Constant Sorrow', 7a+, Crag X...

We also went up to Caller. Steve has been cleaning up and re-climbing the problems there. It's a venue that really deserves more traffic as some of the blocs and lines are amazing.
We'll definately get back up there as it was way too windy. Here are a few photos:

The view from Caller

Steve Blake on 'Indian Summer', 7a+, Caller. Incredible boulder, awesome line, three star problem...

Steve Blake on 'Cowboy Up', 7a, Caller

Steep problem through the roof to the left of the crag.

Steve also frightened me with stories from Baffin of falling through crevasses and cutting steps with a peg hammer whilst wearing EBs on the final snow slopes to the summit of Mt Asgard. Terrifying.

It's been a while...

Sorry I haven't updated for a couple of months, but that means I've got lots of photos to share with you. Work has been getting in the way a bit, but I've still been managing to get out as often as possible.
A couple of weeks ago it was a beautiful Sunday. Perfect weather, so I decided to drive up north and see what was going on. I went to Kyloe first and there were no cars, so I decided to head over to Bowden taking the back road so I could enjoy the views. There were no cars at Kyloe-In or Back Bowden and only one car at Bowden! I wonder how many people were queuing at Stanage that day?
The climbers at Bowden were two friendly guys from Scotland, Duncan and Ewan, enjoying the sunshine and getting the classics ticked.

Duncan on 'Overhanging Crack' E2 5c

Duncan on 'Canada Crack' HVS 5a

I've been up to Callerhues a couple of times recently. It's in great condition at the moment, but despite the non-stop sunshine we've had recently, it's a crag that has its own weather system...

A wet day at Callerhues

I took Jimmy Hunter up to Redheugh for some photos. It's always good to hang out with Jimmy and talk about the good old days when we were both a bit stronger...

Here's Jimmy on a highball 6b+

Jimmy on 'Easier' 6a

It's a pity Redheugh isn't a bit closer to the road, but it makes up for that by having great views out over The Cheviots.
Next up is a rare trip out by the legendary Peter Tinmouth. Peter is famous for his awesome, back-breaking fall from the top of Peak Technique. If you haven't seen the video, count yourself lucky...

Peter Tinmouth on 'Bottomless Crack', Raven's Crag, HVS 5b

Also at Raven's Crag, here's Katie...

Katie Mundy on 'LH Hole' 6b

Shaftoe gets pretty popular on these longer evenings. All the locals know it's a fantastic mid-grade bouldering venue. I'm surprised (but thankful) that more people don't travel here from further away. 

Nicole McGregor bouldering at Salter's Nick

Nicole McGregor bouldering at Salter's Nick

Andy Sandercock on 'Incipient Crack' 6a

Chris Morrish on 'Surprising Solution' 7a

Super-strong Joanne Quinan on 'Surprising Solution' 7a

Danka and I spent an evening at Gimmerknowe and we were joined by some inquisitive sheep...

Danka Kudlacik on 'Leaning Wall' 5+

I'll be updating the blog in the next couple of days, so check back very, very soon...

Monk Life gets 15 repeats! In one afternoon..!

Kyloe-In-The-Wood


This week I witnessed something very special: Micky Page doing laps on Monk Life 8b+!

Micky Page on 'Monk Life' 8b+

Micky and I had been trying to get up to Kyloe-In for a couple of months, but work and the weather seemed to be conspiring against us. It seemed that whenever we were free, it rained. We had arranged to go up this week, and although (once again) it rained overnight we thought we'd head up anyway. After picking up Tom McNally, who had kindly offered to give me a hand with the shoot, we drove up north through heavy showers. Despite not being very optimistic about our chances, we walked in to the crag to find the Bad Company wall in perfect condition.

Micky got warmed up while I got my gear set up, then he got on it and did it first go, making it look easy. Then he did it again, and again.... and again!
I even had him holding the launch holds for a couple of seconds before the crux and he still did it easily. For those that don't know, I should point out that Micky has already done this problem. He made the fourth ascent in January this year. I should also mention that Micky is strong. VERY strong. He's already climbed three problems graded 8c, and has a few more in his sights. His 'to do' list is basically a list of the world's hardest boulder problems!

Micky Page on the launch holds of 'Monk Life' 8b+

...The crux

Lying on the ground underneath it is the only way to truly appreciate how steep this bit of rock is...

Micky Page on the crux of 'Monk Life' 8b+

It continued to shower occasionally during the afternoon and we even had fifteen minutes of snow, but Monk Life stayed dry.

I just couldn't believe how easily Micky was doing this super-hard problem. It was one of the most awesome displays of power I have ever seen. After I pointed out the obvious, that he had it wired, he said "Yeah, I'm going to put it in my circuit", and I couldn't stop laughing!

Thanks to Tom and Alan for your help, especially considering Alan was leaving as we arrived at the crag and Tom made the journey under three bouldering mats and didn't complain.



Callerhues


I went up to Callerhues with Katie Mundy a couple of weeks ago. It was a very wet day (do you see a theme starting here?) and I knew there was no way there was going to be an opportunity for photos. It was difficult to muster any enthusiasm, but we decided to go up to the crag anyway as Katie hadn't been there before and wanted to check it out. The walk in was awful - as wet as I've ever seen it. So was the crag! We had a walk along, looking for anything dry, but it was in very poor condition. It wasn't in vain though. The crag dried out during the rest of the afternoon and we ended up with two dry problems. They were the only dry bits of rock on the whole crag.

Katie Mundy on 'On The Mark' 7a+

Katie Mundy on 'Air' 7a+

Katie Mundy on 'Air' 7a+

Katie didn't get much climbing done, so she headed straight to the wall afterwards and I went home to dry my shoes out. I'm pretty happy with the photos considering the circumstances, but we're going back up there when it's dried out a bit.



Kyloe


A trip to Kyloe gave me the opportunity to photograph Stu Campbell on Northern Territory, Andy Wilson on First Born and Mark Hammonds on Flake Crack.

Stu Campbell on 'Northern Territory' 7c+

Mark Hammonds on 'Flake Crack' S4b

I've got a few photos of First Born, but I wanted to get alongside to the left of the route and see what it looked like from there. I was a bit too close, but that's what happens when you only have one chance. I'll know for next time.

Andy Wilson on 'First Born' E4 6b

Andy Wilson on 'First Born' E4 6b

This photo has the added bonus of the legendary Chris Morrish hiding in the background. 
Can you spot him? 


Just a reminder that I'm on the lookout for people to photograph (the grade you climb at isn't important), so if you're planning a trip to Northumberland and don't mind me tagging along to take photos, please get in touch.

South to Slipstones, north to Cuddy's Cave

Slipstones 


Yesterday I travelled down to Slipstones to meet up with Dan, Ned, Michele, Nick and Ben. Dan was going to have another crack at Cypher, Ben Moon's three star 8b. He'd been on it last week and fallen off the good holds a couple of times, so I knew he'd do it if conditions were good, and the conditions were perfect.
Sure enough, once he'd warmed up he almost got it on his first go, sticking to the good holds for just long enough to make me think he was home and dry before coming off. A couple of goes later and he was up.

Dan Varian on 'Cypher' 8b

Dan Varian repeats 'Cypher' 8b. Sorry about the poor quality animation...

Michele Caminati is over from Italy to sample the grit. He's an 8b+ legend and is climbing super-hard problems all over the world. Here he is mid-crux crux on Cypher:

Michele Caminati

Michele Caminati on 'Stipule'

Michele, Nick and I had plenty to talk about as we're all photographers. Nick is working on a bouldering film which you can check out here:   www.facebook.com/outcropfilms

Michele's website is here:    http://www.michelecaminati.com/

Nick was working Lay-By Arete, and it wasn't long before he got it. Entertaining.

Nick Brown on Lay-By Arete

Cuddy's Cave


While there was a gap in the bad weather a couple of weeks ago, I met Chris Miele up at Cuddy's Cave. He'd recently found this lone outcrop just outside Wooler and got to work developing it. At first it's not that impressive, but the problems are great and it's in a beautiful location. After seeing a few pictures on the UKC website, I knew I had to get some photos of Chris on a couple of his problems there.
The obvious line for photos is the steep traverse, 'Bepanthen Battle' 7a. It just looks fantastic!
Chris is a great climber and he's really into doing a bit of exploring in the County, so I'm looking forward to tagging along on a couple of trips and getting a few more pictures.

Chris Miele on 'Bepanthen Battle'

Cuddy's Cave